Riding Icelandic Horses on a Black Sand Beach: An Unforgettable Adventure in South Iceland

From learning the smooth four-beat tölt to cantering across an untouched black sand beach, our ride with Hestar og Fjöll revealed the strength, spirit, and remarkable history of the Icelandic horse.

“Have you ever ridden an Icelandic horse?”

The question came from Leah, a fellow rider visiting from Zurich, Switzerland as we stood outside the small, cozy stable at Hestar og Fjöll near Hvolsvöllur in South Iceland.

“No,” I answered.

She smiled as though she already knew exactly what was ahead of us.

“You are in for a treat,” she said. “You may never want to ride any other horses ever again!”

Leah and her friend had been so enchanted by their first experience that they were now preparing for their third ride with Martina and her team. They had already ridden through Iceland’s volcanic landscapes and high beneath the glaciers. Now they were joining us for the black sand beach ride.

Three rides during one vacation said everything.

Before I had even met my horse, I began to wonder whether Leah might be right.

Arriving at Hestar og Fjöll

Hestar og Fjöll is set amid the vast landscapes of South Iceland, where green pastures stretch toward glaciers, mountains, rivers, waterfalls, and volcanic coastline.

The farm felt warm and authentic from the moment we arrived. It was not a polished tourist attraction separated from everyday life. It was a real family farm, filled with horses and surrounded by the land that shapes them.

The Hestar og Fjöll website describes Mid-Grund as a farm with six generations of family history. Today, Martina Holmgren runs the riding operation with her family, welcoming both first-time and experienced riders into the world of the Icelandic horse.

Martina originally came from Sweden but has made Iceland her home for approximately 20 years. Looking across the fields, it appeared as though hundreds of Icelandic horses were grazing around us. The compact horses, wide green pastures, and enormous mountain backdrop created a scene that felt almost unreal.

As we arrived, horses were being gathered from the fields and brought into the stable. There was something peaceful about watching them come in together. They appeared calm, curious, and completely at home.

The guides welcomed us and began introducing each rider to their horse. While the horses were being groomed and tacked up, the stable filled with the easy activity of a barn preparing for a ride: saddles being adjusted, bridles checked, riders finding helmets, and horses waiting patiently.

Hestar og Fjöll offers a variety of riding experiences, including shorter river and waterfall rides, glacier and mountain routes, full-day excursions, black sand beach tours, and longer multi-day adventures. Its current day-tour program includes rides to Írafoss Waterfall, the Eyjafjallajökull glacier area, Lake Holtsós, and the South Coast’s volcanic sands.

I chose the Black Sand Beach Tour for the beauty of the landscape and on the day of our ride, Iceland gave us extraordinary weather.

The sky was bright, the wind was light, and the mountains and glacier were clearly visible around us.

Learning How to Ride the Icelandic Horse

Before mounting, Martina gave us a lesson on how to ride Icelandic horses and how to ask for their most famous gait: the tölt.

Although people outside Iceland sometimes affectionately call them Icelandic ponies because of their compact size, the breed’s proper name is the Icelandic horse.

They may stand smaller than many warmbloods or sport horses, but they possess the strength, substance, and confidence of a much larger horse.

Martina instructed us to sit upright, allow our legs to hang long, and maintain a quiet, balanced position. To encourage the tölt, we would ask for a degree of collection and then add a small amount of impulsion.

The goal was not simply to make the horse go faster. The horse needed enough energy to move forward while remaining balanced and organized.

Then came the essential detail: the tölt is a four-beat gait.

Unlike the two-beat trot, the tölt follows an even four-beat footfall pattern without a moment of suspension. One or two feet remain in contact with the ground at any given time, helping create the remarkably smooth sensation riders associate with the gait.

We were all excited to experience it.

Soon, it was time to mount. We used a mounting stool, although the horses seemed so small compared with the horses many of us rode at home.

Once in the saddle, however, their size quickly became irrelevant.

They felt solid, capable, and ready to carry us across the Icelandic landscape.

The Viking History of the Icelandic Horse

Part of what makes riding an Icelandic horse in Iceland so meaningful is the breed’s extraordinary history.

The ancestors of today’s Icelandic horses arrived with Norse settlers during Iceland’s settlement era more than a thousand years ago. Over centuries of geographic isolation, the horses developed into a distinctive breed shaped by Iceland’s climate, terrain, transportation needs, and rural culture.

For close to a millennium, very few, if any, outside horses entered the country. In 1882, Iceland formally prohibited the importation of horses, reinforcing the isolation that helped preserve the breed’s unique genetic heritage. 

Today, live horses generally cannot be imported into Iceland. An Icelandic horse that leaves the country cannot simply return home.

These rules are not only about maintaining breed identity. They also help protect Iceland’s horse population from infectious diseases to which an isolated population may have limited exposure or immunity. Iceland’s animal-import legislation permits strict controls intended to prevent the introduction of infectious disease and genetic problems.

This isolation has helped preserve a horse known for its:

• Strength and stamina
• Sure-footedness
• Intelligence
• Willing temperament
• Longevity
• Distinctive additional gaits

Icelandic horses have the familiar walk, trot, and canter. Many also perform the tölt, and some are five-gaited horses capable of an additional gait called flying pace. The breed’s gaits, versatility, character, and functional riding ability remain central to both breeding and competition standards.

Experiencing the Tölt for the First Time

We rode away from the farm along quiet lanes and through green fields.

It did not take long before we had our first opportunity to try the tölt.

Following Martina’s instructions, I sat upright, kept my legs long, and asked my horse for a little more collection and forward energy.

Then the rhythm changed.

Instead of the up-and-down movement of a trot, the horse seemed to glide beneath me. Each footfall was distinct, yet the movement through the saddle felt remarkably smooth.

It was controlled, energetic, and effortless all at once.

There was no need to post. There was no jarring bounce. We simply traveled forward while the Icelandic countryside opened around us.

I immediately understood why riders talk so enthusiastically about the tölt.

It is not merely an unusual gait to check off an equestrian bucket list. It is a uniquely comfortable and joyful way to travel across the landscape.

The horses appeared to know their jobs perfectly. With a small adjustment from the rider, they settled into the gait with ease.

And just as easily, they returned to a relaxed walk.

Grass Breaks and Horse-First Hospitality

Throughout the ride, we stopped for short grass breaks.

The horses lowered their heads to graze while we admired the view, talked with the guides, and allowed them to rest.

These pauses were a small detail, but they revealed something important about the experience. The horses’ comfort was always considered.

The pace of the ride was adjusted for the terrain. The guides monitored the group. Faster stretches were balanced with walking and grazing breaks. Nothing felt rushed or forced.

The horses were not simply transportation to a scenic destination. They were the heart of the entire experience.

Crossing the River

Before reaching the black sand beach, we had to cross a broad river.

The guides warned us that our feet might get wet and instructed us to keep our horses moving forward through the water.

As we approached the riverbank, the landscape seemed to grow even wider.

The horses stepped confidently into the water. They did not hesitate. They simply lowered their heads slightly, found their footing, and carried us forward.

The water rose around their legs as we crossed. We kept them moving, trusted their balance, and tried not to think too much about how cold our feet might soon become.

Their calmness was remarkable.

This was where the ruggedness of the Icelandic horse became more than a historical description. We could feel it beneath us.

These horses were sure-footed, sensible, and completely accustomed to navigating the country’s changing terrain.

Reaching Iceland’s Black Sand Beach

Once we crossed the river, the green landscape opened onto a vast stretch of black volcanic sand.

The beach seemed untouched by the world.

There were no crowds around us. No busy roads. No city sounds.

Only horses, riders, dark sand, distant mountains, and an enormous Icelandic sky.

The black sand coastline is one of the defining landscapes of South Iceland, and Hestar og Fjöll’s beach tour travels across rivers and fields before reaching the volcanic shore. On clear days, riders may see glaciers, mountains, waterfalls, and even the Westman Islands offshore.

We began by walking, allowing the horses to settle onto the beach and adjust to the deeper footing.

Then we asked for the tölt.

Gliding across black sand on an Icelandic horse felt almost dreamlike. The smooth rhythm of the gait contrasted beautifully with the raw, dramatic landscape around us.

After another transition back to walk and then halt, we prepared to canter.

And then we were off.

Cantering Across the Black Sand

Cantering an Icelandic horse across a black sand beach was everything I had hoped it would be.

The sun was bright. A light breeze moved around us. The sand stretched ahead, and the horses felt strong and powerful underneath us.

It was heavenly.

There was freedom in the moment, but also trust. The horses were eager without feeling reckless. They knew the terrain, knew their work, and moved with confidence.

Because the sand was deeper in places, the guides were careful not to allow the horses to become overtired. We returned to walk and gave them another rest before continuing.

That horse-first approach made the experience even more enjoyable. We could appreciate the excitement of the ride while knowing that the horses’ fitness and wellbeing remained the priority.

Turning for Home

Eventually, it was time to leave the beach and begin the journey back to the farm.

We crossed vast fields, followed long lanes, and once again enjoyed stretches of tölt.

By then, we were beginning to understand our horses better.

We knew how much energy to ask for. We were more comfortable with the rhythm. The horses seemed happy to move forward, and they appeared genuinely to enjoy their work.

Their strength and sturdiness continued to amaze me.

Despite their compact stature, they carried adult riders across rivers, fields, roads, and deep sand with confidence. They were responsive without being overly sensitive, energetic without becoming unsettled, and sensible in every environment we encountered.

This is a breed developed to travel.

You can feel that history every time an Icelandic horse steps forward.

Returning to the Farm

When we returned to the stable, the horses were cooled down, untacked, and cared for.

We gathered for refreshments and had time to talk with Martina, her family, the guides, and the other riders.

There was no feeling of being hurried away. Instead, the end of the ride felt like returning home after a day spent with friends.

The guides were happy, helpful, and deeply familiar with their horses. Martina and her family clearly love both the Icelandic horse and the opportunity to introduce visitors to the breed.

They take guests out in Iceland’s famously changeable conditions—rain, wind, sleet, and snow—and provide appropriate gear for the weather. Hestar og Fjöll operates riding experiences throughout the year, adapting routes and tours for riders of different experience levels.

Any weather would have made the experience memorable.

But riding beneath the glacier on a gorgeous, sunny day made it extraordinary.

Are Icelandic Horses Really That Different?

Before our ride, I knew Icelandic horses were famous for the tölt.

Afterward, I understood that the gait is only part of what makes them special.

Their appeal lies in the complete horse:

Their strength.

Their calm intelligence.

Their confidence over difficult terrain.

Their willingness to work.

Their compact power.

Their ability to make a rider feel secure while still delivering an exhilarating experience.

They are products of Iceland’s history, but they are not relics of the past. They remain working partners, competition horses, family horses, trail horses, and cultural ambassadors for the country that has protected them for generations.

Why Horseback Riding in Iceland Belongs on Every Equestrian’s Bucket List

There are trips you remember because of where you went.

There are rides you remember because of the horse beneath you.

This experience gave us both.

Riding through Iceland’s green fields, crossing a river, tölting along country lanes, and cantering across an empty black sand beach allowed us to experience the landscape in a way that would not have been possible from a car or tour bus.

We were not simply looking at Iceland.

We were moving through it on the backs of the horses that have carried Icelanders across the country for more than a thousand years.

As we thanked Martina, her family, and the guides, I thought again about Leah’s words before we had mounted.

“You may never want to ride any other horses ever again.”

At the time, I had smiled politely.

After gliding across rivers, fields, and black volcanic sand on one of these remarkable horses, I understood exactly what she meant.

There is something wonderfully honest about the Icelandic horse.

Strong enough to carry you almost anywhere.

Gentle enough to make you feel at home.

And unforgettable enough to leave you dreaming about your next ride before you have even left the farm.

Planning a Horseback Ride in South Iceland

Hestar og Fjöll is located near Hvolsvöllur and offers day rides and multi-day horseback adventures for a range of riding abilities.

Available experiences may vary by season, weather, rider experience, and local conditions, so travelers should review the farm’s current tour information before booking.

For our visit, the Black Sand Beach Tour offered the perfect combination of:

• Icelandic horse history
• An introduction to the tölt
• River crossings
• Open fields and country lanes
• Black volcanic coastline
• Glacier and mountain views
• A welcoming family-farm experience

For an equestrian traveling to Iceland, it is an experience I wholeheartedly recommend.